tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6803766744560445542024-03-22T01:51:31.644-04:00Roger et Gallet PerfumesFrom Past to PresentGHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-68604101704091184412023-01-12T18:36:00.003-05:002023-01-12T18:36:51.017-05:00Fugue by Roger et Gallet c1932<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Fugue by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1932. Fugue means ‘elopement’ of ‘wandering impulsion’ in French, suggesting a romantic escape.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihC_3DENCGeH-_-Zfd4jYKNhGqdwt3HBI07SYkylvM4DD-HYjBY_AbRWUXyW3A95kwK02IKGoY4gR1acocMJIT2-yR249jAUxsAejI2EoUANdsSFblHzBhFTEI2oMb8HiS6n2dVAh_pYAIHMdBEahglYAVhKUKQh2UKc5jqPKnn5R5eDNB8TcCn2Xng/s1530/fug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="1157" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihC_3DENCGeH-_-Zfd4jYKNhGqdwt3HBI07SYkylvM4DD-HYjBY_AbRWUXyW3A95kwK02IKGoY4gR1acocMJIT2-yR249jAUxsAejI2EoUANdsSFblHzBhFTEI2oMb8HiS6n2dVAh_pYAIHMdBEahglYAVhKUKQh2UKc5jqPKnn5R5eDNB8TcCn2Xng/w484-h640/fug.jpg" width="484" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
<br />So what doe sit smell like? It is classified as a woody chypre fragrance for women.<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top notes: myrtle, bergamot, Grasse neroli, orange blossom, daffodil, and Italian lemon</li><li>
Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, narcissus, hyacinth, ylang ylang, jasmine, oakmoss, and labdanum</li><li>
Base notes: galbanum, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, and ambergris</li></ul></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">L'Amour de l'art, 1950:<br /><blockquote><i>
"Fugue by Roger and Gallet: it is a light but inconsequential fugue to which one sees an invitation...A dream for a young girl, but which is no longer attractive because all the flowers come together to give her for a few hours all the blooming of a summer's day."</i></blockquote><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Combat, 1954:</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><blockquote><i>"Eau Fugue by Roger and Gallet: The Greek Meleager wrote: 'I will weave with myrtles the pure narcissus and the golden daffodil, I will also weave the purple hyacinth; I will weave the amorous rose, so that, on the temples of Heliodorus with fragrant hair, my crown enamels the pretty curls with its flowers.' For the Heliodorus of today the crown of Meleager flows from a flask."</i></blockquote></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlhm9y0EvkJFV-uKKODZtLKRHvAz7e5mkeCpPgA31SUm8e_aZLrYul6n_nLzwzQnSDFA3aJgOkLks1zcSoYjczVncngXjdnL2bD-JyAWSPnJhMzEAF04ysoAxvrzFkVkx9FgM4tEcH0yA34dJFy2LODTuARBByg1KapcXTIReIRobHhEG6yGoLnQpag/s380/fy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlhm9y0EvkJFV-uKKODZtLKRHvAz7e5mkeCpPgA31SUm8e_aZLrYul6n_nLzwzQnSDFA3aJgOkLks1zcSoYjczVncngXjdnL2bD-JyAWSPnJhMzEAF04ysoAxvrzFkVkx9FgM4tEcH0yA34dJFy2LODTuARBByg1KapcXTIReIRobHhEG6yGoLnQpag/s16000/fy.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Bottles:</u></h3>
<br />Fugue parfum was housed inside a chunky Baccarat crystal flacon, model #769 from 1937.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsEEJixmiJGeRomPT6i3oOc4J0w0mv4CPwMgTJhsX0v7itsf6Ppf7CjQ1jW9MCHjtKYBGvbjwqtkOJkIE2GXpI5J2trJJcCjyBwqyeROLMcHn9ZbHkMoU9ckET-anwmfMXd-AL0gCfg7ICEG5OzuakFq_P0Jc6BRzL-YLKdv65OvY1nTE3eiaMTnkdQ/s794/fuf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="786" data-original-width="794" height="634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsEEJixmiJGeRomPT6i3oOc4J0w0mv4CPwMgTJhsX0v7itsf6Ppf7CjQ1jW9MCHjtKYBGvbjwqtkOJkIE2GXpI5J2trJJcCjyBwqyeROLMcHn9ZbHkMoU9ckET-anwmfMXd-AL0gCfg7ICEG5OzuakFq_P0Jc6BRzL-YLKdv65OvY1nTE3eiaMTnkdQ/w640-h634/fuf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<br /><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Discontinued, date unknown, still sold in 1951.</div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-83752483131183296512022-04-09T20:56:00.004-04:002022-04-09T20:56:56.070-04:00Flausa by Roger et Gallet c1914<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Flausa by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1914.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? I believe it was a floral fragrance for women.<br />
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<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
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The Spur 1923:<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"The extract Flausia is in a frosted bottle on which a nymph most exquisitely carved is seen kneeling with her long hair and a little tulle furnishing a costume."</i></blockquote>
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clear & frosted Lalique bottle w/sepia patina, flattened ovoid body molded w/the seated figure of a half-nude classical maiden, molded “Lalique” on the button-form stopper, matching a perfume bottle in clear and frosted glass with orange patina staining, molded with a kneeling draped nude surrounded by flowers and foliage, 4.75" tall.<br />
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"Flausa is a fragrance whose bouquet tempts this crouching young girl, making the gesture of picking a flower. It is a table in relief of just a few centimeters, which enhances the frosted crystal."<br />
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Flausa by Roger et Gallet, perfume bottle by Rene Lalique, c1913, clear and frosted glass, 12 centimeters tall, oval base rising to widening shoulders then tapering to thin neck with a patinated crouching female figure motif.<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-22922821304458324742022-04-09T20:50:00.000-04:002022-04-09T20:50:01.993-04:00Violette de Parme by Roger et Gallet c1880<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
Violette de Parme was launched in 1880 and is one of Roger et Gallet's most beloved fragrances. </div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">So what does it smell like? It is classified as a violet soliflore fragrance. </div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">It made use of the newly discovered ionones by Tiemann & Kruger after many years of research. The ionones generated an odor of iris and violet. The fragrance raw material supplier, Societe de Laire bought Tiemann's French patents for the synthesis of the ionones and Roger et Gallet successfully negotiated exclusive rights to the product in return for buying minimum annual quantities of the compound. The ionones were first used commercially in Roger et Gallet's Vera Violetta, which they described as "the scent of the true violet, fresh and green". Previously, the very expensive Parma violet absolute and the orris butter from the root of the Florentine iris were used in the composition of the perfumes.</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Bottles:</u></h3><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-2521397102764416572021-04-18T16:22:00.001-04:002022-04-09T20:51:54.827-04:00Tentation by Roger et Gallet c1920<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Tentation by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1920. This was a line of various scents under the name of Tentation: Chypre Tentation, Muguet Tentation, Oeillet Tentation, Pois de Senteur Tentation.<br />
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Unique flat, diamond shaped crystal bottle with triangular stopper. Housed in presentation boxes covered with paper reminiscent of undersea jungle foliage, supposedly originated with a French artist.<br />
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Bottle came in four sizes:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>2 1/2 oz</li>
<li>2/3 oz</li>
<li>1/2 oz</li>
<li>1/4 oz</li>
</ul>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-78436813926328545342020-05-20T23:55:00.000-04:002020-05-20T23:55:00.260-04:00Night of Delight by Roger et Gallet c1938<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Night of Delight by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1938.<br />
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<u>Fragrance Composition</u>:</h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental floral fragrance for women. Very sandalwood laden, sweet and balsamic.<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: bergamot, Italian lemon, geranium</li>
<li>Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine</li>
<li>Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, benzoin, oakmoss, Bourbon vetiver, tonka</li>
</ul>
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Harper's Bazaar, 1942:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"In wartime, men are more masculine, women more feminine—and sex is probably here to stay more than ever. And more than ever, we appreciate such perfume as Roger and Gallet's “Night of Delight.”</i></blockquote>
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Discontinued by 1960.</div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-54196000687723753232020-04-15T21:30:00.001-04:002024-02-14T20:50:14.285-05:00Cigalia by Roger et Gallet c1910<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Cigalia by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1910.</div>
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<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.</div>
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<ul>
<li>Top notes: bergamot, geranium</li>
<li>Middle notes: Florentine iris, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, heliotrope</li>
<li>Base notes: amber, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, tonka, tobacco</li>
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3>
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It's fabulous Art Nouveau bottle was made by Rene Lalique in four sizes. The tapering rectangular bottle molded with a frosted winged locust at each corner, the lozenge-shaped stopper molded with stylized branches, the bottle was then given a cold patination in green stain. The flacon was packaged in a similarly decorated wooden box. It is noted by Marcilhac that the smallest bottle of Cigalia was not signed by Lalique, so don't be alarmed if your little bottle doesn't have a mark. Four versions of this design were made for Roger et Gallet, the first three dating from 1923 being smaller and of squarer form.<br />
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The Spur, 19<br />
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<i>"For La Cigalia, the stopper of bottle has the lines typical of grasshopper or locust's wing and each corner of the flacon is cut out to represent a locust with his long wings folded and looking for all the world as though he were trying to prove his resemblance to a lady of the smart set wearing a brand new opera cloak of narrow silhouette cut from a fabric with an etched design."</i></blockquote>
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A sumptuous powder box was made up of clear and frosted crystal, each corner of the lid is molded with a cicada whose wings stretch down to the base of the powder box.<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
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Similarly decorated was a small pot de creme, which is a very rare find.</div>
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<br />Cigalia was also available as a luxurious scented soap, colored a rusty brown and molded in the shape of two cicadas facing each other. This luxe soap was housed in a decorated wooden box, in the same manner and the perfume flacon, and the soap rested on a bed of crumpled silk.</div>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Cigalia has been discontinued for many years, it was released for a limited time as eau parfumee in 1967, it was discontinued shortly after reintroduction and remains a rare find today.<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-66248955717144145872020-03-11T20:52:00.001-04:002024-02-14T20:35:10.709-05:00Narkiss by Roger et Gallet c1912<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Narkiss by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1912.<br />
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<u>Fargrance Composition:</u></h3>
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. The name "Narkiss" is a allusion to the word "Narcissus".<br />
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<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
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The Spur, 1923:</div>
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<i>"Narkiss comes in a lovable round bottle on both sides of which the petals of the narcissus and their markings are cut in the glass."</i></blockquote>
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This perfume bottle is by Rene Lalique, standing 9 centimeters tall, clear and frosted glass with moth decorated stopper and poppy form body with black enamel, bottle mold also known as Althea. Two different size bottles.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">Ewbank Auctions</span></div>
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photo by Abstract</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1925.</div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-33876777578716554552020-01-16T16:28:00.002-05:002020-01-16T16:28:46.249-05:00Paquerettes by Roger et Gallet c1913<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Paquerettes by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1913.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? There is no information on it's composition, therefore I am going to assume Paquerettes was a floral bouquet odor as the name means "daisy" and the bottle's stopper is molded with daisies.<br />
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Interestingly, the daisy was part of secret code called the Language of Flowers, here are some of the "meanings" for daisies:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Daisy, Garden—I share your feelings.</li>
<li>Daisy, Michaelmas—Farewell.</li>
<li>Daisy, Red—Beauty unknown to possessor.</li>
<li>Daisy, White—Innocence.</li>
<li>Daisy, Wild—I will think of it.</li>
</ul>
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<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
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The exquisite flacon used for Paquerettes was made by Rene Lalique in 1913. The bottle is a plain clear triangular body with nearly circular tiara stopper decorated with daisies with stems emanating from the tiara stem emulating a vase of flowers. The bottle stands 3.75" tall and has a cellophane label on the front. It was housed in a presentation box covered in orange paper. This appears to be the only bottle style used for the perfume as I have not found another.<br />
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<u><br />Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
<br />Discontinued, date unknown, probably in the late 1920s. It was still being sold in 1925.<br /></div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-13420824036223099752019-03-07T16:57:00.002-05:002019-04-19T12:14:37.261-04:00Pervenche de Chine c1906<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Pervenche de Chine by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1906. "Periwinkle of China", referring to the pink flowers.<br />
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<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.<br />
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<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Discontinued. Still sold in 1909.</div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-78506698010568647292015-03-02T19:39:00.001-05:002021-05-05T22:02:06.982-04:00Blue Carnation by Rogert & Gallet c1937<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Blue Carnation by Roger & Gallet: launched in 1937. You can also find it in its French name Oeillet Bleu.<br />
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<u>Fragrance Composition</u>:</h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Made use of the chemicals iso eugenol, eugenol, salicylates and vanillin.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: carnation </li>
<li>Middle notes: pepper and clove</li>
<li>Base notes: Indian sandalwood, anise and vanilla</li>
</ul>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Discontinued, date unknown.</div>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-4406851344302709932014-10-04T03:34:00.002-04:002014-10-04T03:34:58.756-04:00Roger et Gallet Perfume Advertisement 1958<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Roger et Gallet Perfume Advertisement for 1958, showing perfume/toiletry presentations and gift sets. Scents shown: Blue Carnation (Oeillet Bleu), Fleurs d'Amour, Sandalwood, Jean Marie Farina.<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-34211594418275158192013-06-27T18:45:00.038-04:002022-04-21T02:01:26.002-04:00Salvia by Roger et Gallet c1911<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Salvia by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1911.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Q6fy-F0WTDzrijxAwTDGCAiSrFL6A5yghsZB93kXwQBC8camOkLvVvYKHdom-e_lnG6Qn-Cbrq9dBHVWCYjU91ty4zXgHORO6Mi6g09uQCBPHzhZo1x3eGOi4LaAnxbkvPJ2ryTixcqePlGu7JDg5ecj7fGhIoWBr03ovoA69EJ-5QxBD6oVPTu99Q/s633/b-Colorized.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="633" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Q6fy-F0WTDzrijxAwTDGCAiSrFL6A5yghsZB93kXwQBC8camOkLvVvYKHdom-e_lnG6Qn-Cbrq9dBHVWCYjU91ty4zXgHORO6Mi6g09uQCBPHzhZo1x3eGOi4LaAnxbkvPJ2ryTixcqePlGu7JDg5ecj7fGhIoWBr03ovoA69EJ-5QxBD6oVPTu99Q/w640-h472/b-Colorized.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>
Fragrance Composition:</u></h3></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic herbal fragrance for men and women.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top notes: clary sage, bergamot, lavender, lemon</li><li>Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, rose, hawthorn, pepper</li><li>Base notes: amber, oakmoss, patchouli, cedar, musk, sandalwood, vetiver</li></ul></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Bottles:</u></h3>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Discontinued, date unknown.</div>
GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-32452379924280311002013-06-27T18:44:00.006-04:002024-02-14T20:33:15.861-05:00Santalia by Roger et Gallet c1904<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Santalia by Roger et Gallet: launched in 1904 . Most people might remember it better as a hair oil. It was very popular in India.<br />
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<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It was a feminine scent which I describe as a woody citrus.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: lavender, lime, aldehydes, mandarin orange, bergamot, Italian lemon</li>
<li>Middle notes: anise, tarragon, caraway, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine</li>
<li>Base notes: patchouli, cinnamon, tonka, oakmoss, basil, Russian leather, Mysore sandalwood and Bourbon vetiver</li>
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<div><br /></div><div>I have no official notes so I will use a vintage perfume nip and tell you what I can detect. First there is a burst of aldehydes, tuberose and mandarin orange, then a shot of lemon and bergamot all layered over sandalwood and vetiver, finishing with a base of smoky Russian leather.</div><div><br /></div><div>L'Amour de l'art, 1950:</div><blockquote><i>
"Santalia by Roger et Gallet: The smoke of this precious wood gives off a discreet and refined scent whose sharpness is suitable for sportswomen. This perfume, which is somewhat reminiscent of the scent of Russian leather, can be used by a man whose personality it emphasizes without the to betray."</i></blockquote><br />
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Santalia was relaunched in 1979.It is very similar to the Roger et Gallet women's fragrance Santal which was launched in 1978. Santalia has more emphasis on the citrus and leather notes. Both are discontinued.<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-35129256387652043382013-06-27T18:43:00.000-04:002019-08-30T04:39:10.464-04:00Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet c1902<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1902. This is one of the earliest perfumes marketed by Roger and Gallet in America.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOBrlxW3Z-HOVGLotIiKpwsV037CVznq59ih3ut9YSXSBCmwcuI2Ldnj0w4ep7IRyPzbnnlvxpDSX-iy_el_5OlAh1oBz0z-ERAJVKhtdfhcRl6EHZL0IWgtgq82L_k0qAkPVb-AbEC8d/s1600/fda6.JPG"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOBrlxW3Z-HOVGLotIiKpwsV037CVznq59ih3ut9YSXSBCmwcuI2Ldnj0w4ep7IRyPzbnnlvxpDSX-iy_el_5OlAh1oBz0z-ERAJVKhtdfhcRl6EHZL0IWgtgq82L_k0qAkPVb-AbEC8d/s1600/fda6.JPG" /></a><br />
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It was available in parfum extrait, eau de toilette, sachet, soap, face powder, lotion vegetale, bath crystals, bath powder and talc.<br />
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<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, Italian lemon, geranium and galbanum</li>
<li>Middle notes: ylang ylang, lilac, lily of the valley, violet, honey, orange blossom, carnation, jasmine, rose</li>
<li>Base notes: oakmoss, musk, vanilla, Bourbon vetiver, tonka bean, Mysore sandalwood, civet, benzoin, opoponax, ambergris, patchouli</li>
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There are no published notes, so I used a sample that took from an antique bottle that still had some contents inside, so I was able to test it for you. I get notes of carnation, honey, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, ambergris, civet, patchouli, benzoin, orange blossom and opoponax. I am sure there are other notes such as the citruses in the top notes, but this perfume had deteriorated over the 100 years it has been around, so only some of the middle and base notes have survived.<br />
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A few years later, I was able to locate a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete this article. My overall impression is that it is a very bright aldehydic floral with a lot of depth from the mid and base notes. On my skin, the sweeter floral notes and the animalic notes are much more intense than on paper, where they are quite muted. I also get quite a faecal note on the drydown from the civet and indolic jasmine. On paper, the citrus, green and aldehydic notes are much more potent.<br />
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The book Die Moderne Parfumerie lists the following recipe for Roger et Gallet's Fleurs d'Amour:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>2200g infusion of orange</li>
<li>3000g infusion of jasmine</li>
<li>2000g infusion of rose</li>
<li>30g Hyazinthin (Heiko, Heine & Co)</li>
<li>200g musk tincture</li>
<li>180g heliotropin</li>
<li>300g tolu tincture</li>
<li>15g synthetic rose (Heiko, Heine & Co)</li>
<li>4g Jonon (ionone)</li>
<li>100g Terpineol</li>
</ul>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
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The parfum (extrait) was housed inside of a square Baccarat crystal bottle with cut glass lapidary stopper. The C.H. Pillet designed silver and gold embossed paper label shows cupid holding a bouquet in one hand and throwing flowers in the other. The bottle for the eau de toilette hearkens back to this original design but was modified to hold a larger amount of fragrance (though not made by Baccarat).<br />
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These bottles were presented in red packaging scattered with gilded roses. <span style="text-align: center;">The matching graphics used on the presentation box were also used on the original powder box.</span><br />
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Ushering modernism, the Art Deco theme was adopted, and Piver abandoned the old fashioned fussy Edwardian style used in the red packaging. Later on, during the 1920s, the bird of paradise motif was used on the exquisite aluminum powder box designed by Rene Lalique.<br />
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During the second world war, presentations were more streamlined and simple due to the scarcity of materials used in packaging and bottling. These items may have labels that mention that the perfume was "Compounded in the USA."<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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The perfume was discontinued, date unknown. Fleurs d'Amour was still being sold in 1968. </div>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680376674456044554.post-55402655094922738672013-06-27T18:41:00.006-04:002023-01-10T04:34:13.219-05:00Le Jade by Roger et Gallet c1923<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Le Jade by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1923. Le Jade was subtitled "The Precious Perfume."<br />
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It was a complete line including perfume extract, toilet water, soap, face powder, bath salts, brilliantine, sachet powder and talc.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: lime, bergamot, hyacinth</li>
<li>Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom</li>
<li>Base notes: labdanum, ambergris, civet, Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, tonka, musk, patchouli, vanilla</li>
</ul><div></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div>Marie-Claire, 1937:<br /><blockquote><i>"Le Jade by Roger et Gallet: Fresh and heady. Dominant note: hyacinth."</i></blockquote><div></div>
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Vanity Fair, 1923:<br />
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<i>"The announcement in Paris of a new fragrance by Roger & Gallet, favored perfumers of the world's most beautiful women, is an artistic event....Jade is the color and, in precious stones, the personal decoration of the day."</i></blockquote>
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The Pharmaceutical Era, 1924:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"The second room is a shrine for the new odor Le Jade — and the gold walls with bizarre green and black and gold ceiling ... The large size bottles of the Le Jade perfume are of crackled glass, which is an innovation in the world of perfume. The pale green of the perfume..."</i></blockquote>
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3>
Le Jade was housed in various bottles of the years, but its most beloved and coveted is the opaque jade green glass flacon by Rene Lalique. This bottle has a design of tropical birds molded in relief and is shaped like a Chinese snuff bottle.<br />
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Another fine bottle is the crackle glass flacon which is shown in several advertisements, a smaller bottle was created but does not have the crackle appearance.<br />
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<br />The Spur, 1923:<br /><blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"For the Roger and Gallet new perfume Le Jade which has caught the fancy of all the fastidious fashionables Lalique designed a crackled glass bottle and for this there is a box covered with a very modern design showing green love birds on a black and gold ground."</i></blockquote>
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Tall, upright rectangular shaped clear and frosted glass bottle, with a molded circular pattern frieze around the upper part of the bottle. The bottle is fitted with a stair stepped molded glass stopper. The bottle is in the Lalique style, but was not made by Lalique. This style of bottle was used for other Roger et Gallet perfumes such as Feu Follet, Oeillet Carnation, Santalia, Fleurs D"Amour, Pavots d’Argent, Innuendo, Souvent Femme Varie, and Partir.</div>
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This bottle style came in five sizes: 4 oz, 2 oz, 1 oz, ½ oz and ¼ oz.</div>
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<li>The 4 oz size measures 4.25"tall x 1.75" and held Eau de Toilette.</li>
<li>The one ounce size measures 3” tall by 1-⅛” wide.</li>
<li>The half ounce size measures 2.5” tall.</li>
<li>The quarter ounce size was available in two forms, one is topped with a glass stopper meant for the boudoir (2” tall x 1” wide) and the other was topped with a brass cap meant to be carried in the purse.</li>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Discontinued, date unknown. The perfume was still being sold in 1962.<br />
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