Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1902. This is one of the earliest perfumes marketed by Roger and Gallet in America.
It was available in parfum extrait, eau de toilette, sachet, soap, face powder, lotion vegetale, bath crystals, bath powder and talc.
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
There are no published notes, so I used a sample that took from an antique bottle that still had some contents inside, so I was able to test it for you. I get notes of carnation, honey, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, ambergris, civet, patchouli, benzoin, orange blossom and opoponax. I am sure there are other notes such as the citruses in the top notes, but this perfume had deteriorated over the 100 years it has been around, so only some of the middle and base notes have survived.
A few years later, I was able to locate a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete this article. My overall impression is that it is a very bright aldehydic floral with a lot of depth from the mid and base notes. On my skin, the sweeter floral notes and the animalic notes are much more intense than on paper, where they are quite muted. I also get quite a faecal note on the drydown from the civet and indolic jasmine. On paper, the citrus, green and aldehydic notes are much more potent.
The book Die Moderne Parfumerie lists the following recipe for Roger et Gallet's Fleurs d'Amour:
The parfum (extrait) was housed inside of a square Baccarat crystal bottle with cut glass lapidary stopper. The C.H. Pillet designed silver and gold embossed paper label shows cupid holding a bouquet in one hand and throwing flowers in the other. The bottle for the eau de toilette hearkens back to this original design but was modified to hold a larger amount of fragrance (though not made by Baccarat).
These bottles were presented in red packaging scattered with gilded roses. The matching graphics used on the presentation box were also used on the original powder box.
Ushering modernism, the Art Deco theme was adopted, and Piver abandoned the old fashioned fussy Edwardian style used in the red packaging. Later on, during the 1920s, the bird of paradise motif was used on the exquisite aluminum powder box designed by Rene Lalique.
During the second world war, presentations were more streamlined and simple due to the scarcity of materials used in packaging and bottling. These items may have labels that mention that the perfume was "Compounded in the USA."
The perfume was discontinued, date unknown. Fleurs d'Amour was still being sold in 1968.
It was available in parfum extrait, eau de toilette, sachet, soap, face powder, lotion vegetale, bath crystals, bath powder and talc.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, Italian lemon, geranium and galbanum
- Middle notes: ylang ylang, lilac, lily of the valley, violet, honey, orange blossom, carnation, jasmine, rose
- Base notes: oakmoss, musk, vanilla, Bourbon vetiver, tonka bean, Mysore sandalwood, civet, benzoin, opoponax, ambergris, patchouli
There are no published notes, so I used a sample that took from an antique bottle that still had some contents inside, so I was able to test it for you. I get notes of carnation, honey, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, ambergris, civet, patchouli, benzoin, orange blossom and opoponax. I am sure there are other notes such as the citruses in the top notes, but this perfume had deteriorated over the 100 years it has been around, so only some of the middle and base notes have survived.
A few years later, I was able to locate a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete this article. My overall impression is that it is a very bright aldehydic floral with a lot of depth from the mid and base notes. On my skin, the sweeter floral notes and the animalic notes are much more intense than on paper, where they are quite muted. I also get quite a faecal note on the drydown from the civet and indolic jasmine. On paper, the citrus, green and aldehydic notes are much more potent.
The book Die Moderne Parfumerie lists the following recipe for Roger et Gallet's Fleurs d'Amour:
- 2200g infusion of orange
- 3000g infusion of jasmine
- 2000g infusion of rose
- 30g Hyazinthin (Heiko, Heine & Co)
- 200g musk tincture
- 180g heliotropin
- 300g tolu tincture
- 15g synthetic rose (Heiko, Heine & Co)
- 4g Jonon (ionone)
- 100g Terpineol
Bottle:
The parfum (extrait) was housed inside of a square Baccarat crystal bottle with cut glass lapidary stopper. The C.H. Pillet designed silver and gold embossed paper label shows cupid holding a bouquet in one hand and throwing flowers in the other. The bottle for the eau de toilette hearkens back to this original design but was modified to hold a larger amount of fragrance (though not made by Baccarat).
Fate of the Fragrance:
The perfume was discontinued, date unknown. Fleurs d'Amour was still being sold in 1968.
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